PATAGONIA, CHILE:

FASCINATING CHILEAN PATAGONIA AND THE CARRETERA AUSTRAL -7

There are regions around the world that you may never see anything like it elsewhere. You just won’t see anything comes closer to it even when you compare it to in any other continents. Every region has its own intriguing side that will keep you on your toes at all times. Every region has its own beauty and they’re all different. It will give you excitement, it will give you an adrenalin rush and it will make you wonder: how the landscape will change tomorrow and what’s coming up next. Being able to taste many different things at the same region and what its landscape offers you eventually will capture your interest and your love. Whether it’s Mountains, lakes, rivers, fjords, forests, glaciers or a desert, whether weather is rainy, cold, or hot, whether the road conditions are muddy, terrible gravel or a pavement that makes the conditions extreme and hard, it really doesn’t matter: you won’t lose that interest and your love won’t fade away. You will continue in those hard conditions because basically, this area physically talks to you as you cycle this beautiful land in middle of nowhere.  This is Patagonia in Chile! Such a diverse landscape that will leave you sleepless and what a stunning region this is!

    Human population density will show you how Patagonia is sparsely populated area that stretched all the way down to Magellan Straight. This rugged and fantastic landscape will bring you face to face with wild nature alone for so many hours at times which will leave you scratching your hair: Am I the only one left around the world? Seriously, an amazing feeling takes you over and it is quite hard for me to describe it: especially if you are bicycling or traveling this region solo. But over the years, most of my long distance bicycle tours have been solo and I got so used to it. I just love traveling solo! Very seldom, I have partners cycling with me. Cycling Patagonia wasn’t any different for me: I was solo again! However, this time I was facing a region with hardly any towns, cities or villages and hardly any population. Yes, there were towns, but the distance was far from each other and I was on a bicycle. Drinking water wasn’t a problem this time I filled my water bottles every day from melting snow water coming down from mountains which was creating creeks and rivers. I loved that water! It was very clean and healthy as I found out later from local farmers. So every time I saw grocery markets or local farms, I bought so much food to last me for a long time as I cycled great distance every day. Earlier a few weeks ago, I learned my lesson while crossing the Atacama Desert in 14 days where I couldn’t find super markets or stations for a long time and I went hungry and thirsty for days. But just to let you have an idea how rugged, how empty and how you are alone face to face with wild nature in Patagonia, one early afternoon as I cycled this heavily forested area where the trees were so high up, I decided to take a nap. I loved that fresh air and smell of the forest. It was about 1:00 in the afternoon and I pulled my bicycle to the side of the gravel road and took my super light, but yet extremely comfortable Therma-Rest air cushion out of back pannier along with my sleeping bag. I just blew air into it and put it on the ground, opened my sleeping bag and went to sleep out in the open next to my bicycle. I can only hear this creek on the side of the road. There were no cars or anything else, but it was only me. Breathing that fresh air in the middle of the forest with the noise of water coming from the creek gave me so much peace that I fell asleep right-a-way and that little nap turned out to be a 3 hours solid sleep. When I woke up I just couldn’t believe the time. Because of the long nap, that evening I ended up riding my bicycle until it was midnight. And what was amazing about that day and evening was: I neither saw any person nor any car going by. I was just alone together with the wild nature. I finally went to sleep again outside in the nature and out in the open without opening my tent. I just didn’t want to set up my tent to close myself in. I just loved fresh air and this quiet nature so much. This was a good get away from crowded and noisy New York City streets. I just loved this. This time all night, I can only hear the frogs from a distance, but still I had the best sleep. Again no one passed by and I was alone. Next morning, since there were still no one around, I checked my GPS and I just wanted to make sure I am on Carretera Austral-7 route. And I was on right road.

                                                                                                                                                                            

       Carretera Austral Ruta-7 (route) begins in the city of Puerto Montt which I talked about this German city 1000 km south of Santiago in my last blog. But Puerto Montt is not part of the Patagonia and Patagonia actually begins in the town of Chaiten. However, if anyone is coming down south to Patagonia from north, then one must go through Puerto Montt. And this Carretera Austral route is 1240 km in distance all the way down to the village of Villa O’Higgins. And this is where this route ends. Most part of Carretera Austral route is gravel and dirt and at times very rough for bicyclists. It gets terrible on the hills or around the mountains. Some parts of this route are pavement. And now in 2015, Chilean Government is spending so much money to turn this route all pavement. They had already begun this processing as I witnessed it on the road; construction crews were improving the conditions. In reality, I really don’t like this idea. They should keep Patagonia natural and they should leave it alone let it be rugged let it be gravel and wild nature. That’s what makes Patagonia a great region with an amazing landscape. I just do not want a region to become a tourist trap and thousands of cars traveling on this route. It’s a shame! I’ve written a few letters and e-mails to the Chilean Government and I’ve been begging them to keep this route gravel and natural. I just hope they will realize what makes Patagonia special.

     Both on my last blog and on this blog, I’ve already said Patagonia begins in Chaiten. And on my Puerto Montt blog, I mentioned how you’ll have to take a few ferryboat trips and some heavy duty cycling on gravel road to get to the town of Chaiten. That is if you like to see the area. However, there is another ferryboat from Puerto Montt to Chaiten comes directly non-stop. This boat is a overnight trip. Anyways, so you have two option. But once you are in Chaiten, you are in Patagonia. I arrived to Chaiten early in the afternoon. It’s a small town and every house is one story high with gardens. Chaiten is surrounded by the mountains by the east and north side. Gulf of Corcovado on the west side and the south side will take you deep into Patagonia. The afternoon I arrived to Chaiten I stared at those mountain tops to see the volcano ashes which buried this little town 7 years ago in May, 2008. But mountains weren’t the only place I can see the ashes. Despite the fact this volcano erupted 7 years ago, as I bicycled around the town, I can still clearly see the ashes from abandon houses which were heavily damaged. It was an intense eruption that ashes could be seen 17 kilometers high in the sky which not only blanketed the town of Chaiten, but it went as far as neighboring country to Argentina. Even in Argentina, schools, airports and most of the touristic spots closed for business. And because of its heights were up in the sky 17 km, this entire disaster was being able to seen and visible on satellite images for hundreds of kilometers. The entire afternoon in Chaiten, I talked to many local people about the volcano disaster and also about Patagonia. That evening while having a dinner at the Brisas Del Mar on Avenida Corcovado, I felt an intense excitement hitting to its maximum level in regards to an early wake up and begin cycling deep into Patagonia. I was really excited and I was looking forward to cycling this challenging gravel route to experience the Chilean Patagonia.

       It was about 11:00 at night I left the restaurant Brisas Del Mar and I walked around the streets with my bicycle in Chaiten, but I just did not feel tired at all to fall asleep. I was very hyper and feeling excited like a little boy who refuses to go to sleep. And finally around 1:30 in the morning I went to the bed. But I was wide awake again at 4:30 in the morning.  This was really strange for me because I only had 2 hours sleep the night before and now I should have been very tired and sleep until late in the morning. But that wasn’t the case! I knew what the reason was and I knew what was really preventing me from falling asleep again: It was Patagonia. I was very hyper to sleep and Patagonia was whispering into my ears: We’re here! I was hallucinating naturally. Seriously I really thought without drugs I was hallucinating. I got out of the bed quickly, showered and shaved and now I wanted a hot cup of coffee badly. But where can I really find a cup of coffee this early in the morning in a small town like Chaiten? I had some tea bags in my bicycle panniers, fresh lemon and some honey. Now, all I needed was hot water. Quietly I left my room and slowly without making any noise, I sneaked into motel’s kitchen. Everybody was asleep in this small hotel and there were no doors leading into the kitchen.  Hahaha, like an operating smooth spy, using my little flash light, I spotted the kettle to boil the water. While waiting kettle to warm up, I looked around, and luckily I found some instant coffee in a jar. I finally poured the hot water into my metal coffee cup with a closed top on. I took out some money out of my pocket and I left it on the table hoping they would find it in the morning. They would probably wonder “where did this money come from?” hahahaha I was laughing quietly. I left the kitchen in a hurry to back to my room. I got my panniers and bags outside first, then bringing my bicycle and then I poured some honey into my cup of coffee and then left Chaiten.

           Despite the fact I hardly had any sleep, I was still feeling excited, energetic and enthusiastic. I was staring at Patagonia’s natural beauty.  Riding my bicycle, with one hand holding cup of coffee and the other hand holding the bicycle handlebar, still dark, early in the morning, I was enjoying the crisp cold air hitting on my face while listening music my favorites from 1970s and 80s.  Coyhaique is a city over 400 kilometers away south of Chaiten is the capital city of Aysen Region. I knew I had to get to the capital city to continue on Carretera Austral-7 route. I’ve already ridden my bicycle over 4,000 kilometers since I began this journey in Lima, Peru. There were rugged landscape and hard conditions I’ve been through before, in Peru on the mountains, Sechura Desert and also Atacama Desert in Chile, but now, I was staring at extreme rugged landscape, rough and hard conditions in middle of nowhere. Just to remind everyone that, in Peru and Chile people who are driving on the roads usually pulls to the side and stops in front of you with their pickup trucks or utility trucks to give you a lift or a ride to your destination. Especially when they see you climbing and ascending the mountain hills with your bicycle. Some of the bicyclists accept their offer and they get on to their trucks and ride with them hundreds of kilometers. I’ve seen many cyclists from different nations who do this. I’ve had many opportunities, but I refused this offers! Simple fact is: I came to South America to cycle and to explore and to see places closer up, bicycle is the best way to do it. I despise some of the cyclists who tell everyone that they cycled the entire area, yet mostly, they were in a pickup truck hopping place to place. I have nothing against this, but please be honest with others and be honest with yourself. There is nothing wrong with catching a ride or a lift with a pickup truck if you’re really tired or if you want to get somewhere quicker. The reason I’m bringing this up has a lot to do with how nice the people are driving around Patagonia or in South America in general. At least once a day someone would stop by next to me and would want me to ride with them in their pickup trucks, but I refused them at all times. I would simply and nicely tell them that I am here to cycle not to drive.

               There are a few little towns between Chaiten and Coyhaique. After Chaiten there is the Villa Santa Lucia, La Junta, Puyuhuapi, and Villa Maniguales.  This route all the way down to Coyhaique is very green, lots of forest, creeks, rivers and mountains all the way down south to Coyhaique. This early part of Chilean Patagonia does have some pavement road, however, still mostly gravel. Of course after Coyhaique, Carreterra Austral-7 route is about 120 km more pavement and asphalt up until Cerro Castillo National Park Reserve and the village of Cerro Castillo. But from that village, all the way down to south is gravel. And some part of this gravel is smooth, but other times gravel road becomes terrible and hard, not to mention very difficult for bicyclists at times.  I stopped by in these every little town and camped out at nights between. But of course Coyhaique is being the capital city of Aysen region was much bigger and much more populated than any of these towns in the area. When I got to the Coyhaique, I just couldn’t believe my eyes and I couldn’t believe what language my ears were hearing. There were more American and Canadian tourists all over in Coyhaique than the locals. Because it was right before the Christmas, most of these tourists got away for the holidays. About 80% percent of them were families, and I also met a few bicyclists from California, Arizona, Alberta and the city of Montreal. Some of the bicyclists were heading to opposite directions to north to Peru and Bolivia; some were heading toward to west to Argentina and Brazil. We had great conversations at cafes and most of them were talking about their tours. It was really awesome meeting with many other cyclists. One young bicyclist, Brandon from Calgary, Alberta, Canada who was only 22 years old who didn’t know how to change his old chains to a new set of chains, asked me to show him how and help him to replace it. He basically didn’t have that many tools to achieve this. I came to South America well prepared just in case something went wrong. I had every tool for any bicycle part and I also had so many spare parts. Brandon had a spare new chain and he had already put thousands of kilometers on his bike’s chain. It really needed to be changed. I slowly showed Brandon how to take his chain off and how to put the new set on. We did this in a few times until he really learned and got it down. And at the end, he was ready to change his own chains. I felt great about helping others and other cyclists. I knew there were still long roads ahead of everyone of us. Of course, next day, most of us split up to different directions. We still keep in touch with each others. 

      Earlier, in the beginning of this blog, I talked about how Patagonia possesses such a diverse landscape. And now after leaving the city of Coyhaique, down south to Cerro (mountain) Castilla reserve national park, and then right after the town of Cerro Castilla, mark the beginning of a terrain steep and rugged. I was ready and I was very excited. But first I had to make it to the Cerro Castilla. The route Carreterra Austral-7 is about 30 years old. And it had to be one of the most interesting routes around the world. But yet, I found another route which splits off from Carreterra Austral route later at the buttom of the Lago (lake) General Carrera, was the hardest terrain, yet mostly it had one of the best views of any route I’ve ever seen. That route was Ruta-CH-265. I’ve never seen that many steep hills rugged and the entire way to town of Chile Chico is gravel. Yes, part of this route does have some smooth gravel, however, mostly; it was difficult gravel which was in terrible condition and very hard to cycle. Before I go any further about the Ruta-CH-265, I’d like to inform readers that I will have a separate blog about this route next week.

 I left Coyhaique late in the morning and it was a beautiful day. I knew to the mountains and the national park of Cerro Castilla, route was pavement.  I was cycling pretty fast and blazing at times to get to the Cerro Castilla before it got dark. It was Christmas Eve and the next day was Christmas. But whenever you’re on a long tour, you really didn’t care what day it was: Every day was same for me. As I got closer to the mountains range and the national reserve park, scenery was becoming stunning. It was just amazing to watch my left and my right while cycling. While approaching to Cerro Castilla, about 40 kilometers, before, there is this river or huge creek on my right which put an intense spice to this wild landscape. Colors were fantastic! I was getting so much pleasure just staring at this beautiful nature as I cycled. But the big surprise was yet to come. And now it was getting darker late at in the afternoon. Clouds were taking over slowly. It was still partly cloudy, but not heavy enough to block the sun light. I think there was only 15 kilometers left to the mountains of the Cerro Castillo; all of a sudden I was descending deep lower and lower down hill. As soon as I turned the corner I just couldn’t believe my eyes. I was in the middle of a mountain range which was mostly covered by snow and from a distance I can see 5 different tops of mountain hills. If any of you who know my you tube channel, should take a look at these films I captured from my head cam and of course photos from my camera.

      When I got to this point, still on my bicycle descending downhill, weather changed immediately. All of a sudden I was freezing! It was very cold and I knew soon or later I had to stop to put on my snow gloves and change my wet t-shirts from riding my bicycle all day. But because I was facing and staring at a beautiful view, I forgot about the weather and just didn’t care. I began taking photos, filming the entire area. And then cycling closer to the other parts of the mountains and getting closer to it. It was really getting darker now as the evening was taking over the day. I bicycled to the end and arrived to the tiny Village Cerro Castillo. Now the road was gravel! By now it was so dark that I couldn’t see the mountains anymore. This little village was so quiet. I knew tomorrow was Christmas and perhaps most people left the town to go visit relatives elsewhere. I already had enough food in my panniers and I really didn’t need to go to a market. But they were all closed anyways. I found a corner to camp. Immediately, I changed my wet t-shirt and I put on something warmer then my winter coat on top. And then I began setting up my tent. Quickly I took off my panniers from my bicycle and placed them into the tent. Then taking my front tire off and placing my bicycle in the tent as well. Now I was ready to eat then sleep. I was very hungry from a long day cycling. But at the same time, I was smiling, still exciting and eagerly waiting for tomorrow to see what was waiting for me in Patagonia. While I was next to my tent having my dinner, I could tell a few people were watching me from their windows of the house. But I really didn’t care and after the dinner I went to the bed.

     Christmas morning I woke up about 8:00 in the morning, but I decided to sleep in little longer. I went back to sleep and this time when I woke up, it was 10:30. I just didn’t realize how tired I was. As I disassemble my tent, a woman and a man approached to me and began speaking to me in Spanish. I can understand them. They were asking me if I was hungry and if I wanted to join their family Christmas lunch.  I smiled at them, but it was a hard decision. I wanted to hurry up and be on the road, and at the same time, I didn’t want to refuse this nice family who were inviting me to their house for lunch. I finally said yes, I will join you. They smiled and waited for me to finish packing my bicycle. It was the house from last night who were watching me while I was setting up my tent. I told them I didn’t have that much time and I can only be with them for 2 hours. When I entered in to their house I can see the older man and a woman who were already sitting on the table and drinking tea. They were the grandparents. We actually talked a lot about traveling, about Patagonia and about Chile. For Christmas lunch, Pablo’s wife had three different main dishes which were delicious. I loved the way she cooked these items. Grandparents were always smiling and talking to the kids. They were great family and I loved every minute of this Christmas Lunch with them. They really wanted me to stay longer, but I knew I had to be on the road. Pablo asked me if I wanted to stay with them for the night, but I told him that I had to be on the road. And promised him next time I pass by this village, I will knock on their door. I had two brand-new New York T-shirts and I took them out of my panniers and gave them to the kids as Christmas present and thanked them a lot for the delicious meal.  I left their house about 1:00 in the afternoon.

     It was a Christmas day in Patagonia and it was cold and windy. This is the summer season for this area (Southern Hemisphere), but it really didn’t matter for Patagonia. Its weather can change at any time at any day without any warning. And now the road was gravel. I began cycling, however I wasn’t able to speed that much. Wind was head on and it was preventing my speed. Still, when I got on to my first hill and from a distance I can see the magnificent Cerro Castilla. But clouds were covering most part of it. However, I was able to film and photograph most part of it which took me a good hour. You can hear the wind whisper very loud. I continued to cycle and as I ascend another few high hills, I began to fall from my bicycle several times. It was combination of the strong winds and excessive terrible gravel  at different spots which was completely taking over my back tire which was causing for me to fall down on to the ground. And when I fall down on to the ground, I scrape my arms and legs up against the stones which was causing for me to bleed a little.  But I continued cycling. I knew there was a famous huge lake in south of here Lago General Carrera. I was very excited about this lake and surrounding mountains.

     Lago (Lake) General Carrera is a huge lake. It’s also located by the border of Argentina. And this lake is shared by both Chile and Argentina. In Chile it’s called Lago General Carrera and in Argentina it’s called Lake Buenos Aires.  The Chilean Patagonia side of General Carrera, possesses some of the most beautiful and breathe taking views. But at the same time it has some of the hardest terrain rugged and rough gravel roads for bicyclists. Most people take the route Carreterra Austral-7 all the way down to the end to the Villa O’Higgins. And they do miss the most beautiful route Ruta CH 265. I took the ruta 265. Ruta CH 265 actually also takes the south side of the Lake General Carrera and continues to the east coming from west all the way to town Chile Chico (Argentinian Border)

    First, I was also going to take the other route all the way down to Villa O’Higgins. Earlier,when I was in the city of Coyhaique I met several local Chileans who were around 75 year old. They were all experienced people who have been in Patagonia all their life. One of the older Patagonian local whom I met while exchanging currency was Raul.  Raul was a great man who knew Patagonia inch by inch. And Raul is the one who inspired me about the route 265. He told me it is one of the roughest in Chile, but yet, it possessed some of the best views around the Patagonia. I trusted Raul, I listened him and I took advise because there were 3 other elderly people who told me the same thing. I am going to have another blog next week which will cover the Ruta CH 265. I strongly believe I will return back to Chilean Patagonia take the other route to Villa O’Higgins to enter into Argentinean Patagonia after I complete the Silk Road in Asia either end of this year or next year. I did go into Argentinean Patagonia briefly and then to Buenos Aires to catch my flight back to the United States. But I’m destined to return this region soon to complete the entire journey before I began publishing my travel book.

    After passing Cerro Castillo national reserve park and mountains, Patagonia south gets really intense and rough. Winds are very strong, it rains and at times it gets very cold. At least half of the day you’ll have to play against the elements.  What about the road conditions?  Yes, there are parts of Chilean Patagonia where the pedaling gets harder and harder up against hills and mountains and not to mention terrible gravel. But because of the physical beauty and the beautiful views, you kind of forget about the roughness you go through. You just begin to learn how to sacrifice. When you get around the lake Carrera views even get much better. The color of this beautiful lake is indescribable. What an amazing blue!  Here in Patagonia, people of Chile don’t like being called Chileans and in Argentinean Patagonia they do not like being called Argentineans. They like being called Patagonians.

My next blog will cover Ruta CH 265 and later it will be Buenos Aires, Argentina blog. Please enjoy the photos and videos.