PUERTO MONTT, CHILE: A GERMAN TOWN IN SOUTH AMERICA

   Puerto Montt was established in 1853 mostly by German Immigrants who came here to colonize. Following the revolution of 1848 in the German States, up to 30,000 German Immigrants arrived to Chile. And mostly they settled around the southern section of Chile. Since the middle of 19^th Century, German immigrants in Chile played a major role in political, cultural and in economic development. Of course Germans just didn’t arrive to Puerto Montt, but there were many other towns, cities and areas they’ve settled. Settlement, apart from Santiago, mostly went down to south. Osorno, Temuco, and some of them even went down further south to Puyuhuapi, Aysen and deep into Patagonia.

                                      Ferryboat to Hornopiren

                                Beautiful scenery near Puerto Montt

                             Puerto Montt. Near the port

                              Puerto Montt City Center Area

  Puerto, Montt now, these days had mixture of German and Chileans, but after Puerto Montt as I arrived to Patagonia region, I remember very well cycling on gravel road for long time in the morning, and then arriving to Puyuhuapi, Patagonia at approximately 11:00 in the morning, actually shocked me right away. I was scratching my head and my hair; I really thought all of a sudden I thought I was in Germany. Up until then I had no idea about German immigrants coming down south this deep and this far into Patagonia almost 170 years ago. The way they built the town of Puyuhuapi reminded me of a skiing resort in Switzerland or something. Houses and 2 story buildings were all same as any in any German small villages. I talked to locals and residents which most of them had blue eyes and European descend. And surprisingly they were still able to speak German and Spanish. How do I know this with details? First I was there talking to them and asking them when and how their great grandparents arrived and built this beautiful town. And second, there were two German couples who were traveling with a camper van. And these couples, whom I met earlier, a few days ago in Puerto Montt, were traveling slowly staying at hotels, fishing and enjoying other adventures. In three days, on the gravel road, they passed me many times and they would always wave at me. They were in their 60s. So by the time I arrived to Puyuhuapi, they were there. We sat down at a café and began on a long conversation in regards to German immigrants in the area. I knew there was a fascinating true story was behind all these.

    Ruta (route) Carretera Austral-7.This is where all begins. Road to Patagonia and all the way deep into Patagonia. One of the roughest roads for bicyclists.

                                       Puerto Montt

              German Freiburg University backpacker girls visiting the Puerto Montt fish market. We had great conversation, coffee and lunch together. 

                                  Puerto Montt Fish Market

          One of the couple finally told me that, well, his great grandparents were some of the first ones to arrive here to Puyuhuapi.  Yes, according to official reports, first Germans arrived here in 1935. Of course that is only true since it was reported. But what about the unreported events which took place almost 20 years earlier?  I was so interested in this subject and continue to ask them so many questions. And he finally explained to me his great grandfather’s older brother was one of the sailors who escaped from SMS Dresden warship which was hiding in Chile. People, who aren’t familiar with SMS Dresden ship, first should know this was during the World War-I (1914-1918) SMS Dresden was built in 1906-1907 at the Blohm & Voss Shipyard in Hamburg. And it was completed in 1908. SMS Dresden spent much of her time in foreign lands, oceans, seas. Just like the Koninsberg –Class cruisers. But now as its own Dresden class, it had also intense speed. Dresden was due to return back to Germany in 1914, but because of the start of World War-I, SMS Dresden directed to the South American waters as a Commerce Raider. First it was in Atlantic Ocean then it moved to the Pacific Ocean. I’m not going to go to the deep details of this ship, but at the end it was under fire in Chilean waters from 3 different ships and some of the crew members were able to escape in Patagonia region. Well, his great grandfather’s older brother was one of them. And then years later his younger brother moved to the Chile to re-unite with his brother. Of course they’re both dead now. But what an intense story I had to listen from these German tourists in a camper van who were exploring Patagonia and visiting their grandparents’ graveyard. I was fascinated by the entire German immigrants’ arrivals to this region. The way they came, arrived, and changed the entire economic and development outlook. Entire my life, I’ve always said, if they left Germany alone after the World War-2, Germany would have been the real super power.

                 I filmed this from a ferryboat. Spectacular views.

I cycled to this port Horno Piren  all night on a gravel road to make it to the ferryboat ontime. I finally made it here at 3:30 in the morning and slept til 6:00 in the morning on the pier waiting for the ferry. There are no roads to connect with Caleta Gonzalo. You must take ferry.

 Puerto Montt was the same. It was mostly built by German Immigrants. The main reason I came to this town was because it was a getaway to Patagonia. Everything started from here to get down to Patagonia. The main road which leads to Patagonia Carretera Austral-7 began right here in Puerto Montt and of course later you have no choice, but take two different ferry boat.  Town of Chaiten was the beginning site of Patagonia. And to get to Chaiten from Puerto Montt, you can do two things: take the overnight ferryboat straight from here and arrive to Chaiten in the morning, or take the Carretera Austral-7 route from here cycle to La Arena to take the short ferryboat route to cross and then cycle again for 70 kilometers to get to the Hornopiren, and then take another ferryboat for 5 hours to get to Caleta Gonzola. But these are the only two options you have to get to the beginning part of Patagonia which is Chaiten. The problem with the first option ferry, straight to Chaiten with overnight ferry: it is only two nights out of the week. But second option was every day. So I took the second option and first cycled down south to La Arena. And that was the first time I also got onto Carretera Austral 7 route.

                                   Puerto Montt

                                       Puerto Montt

    Carretera Austral-7 route begins in Puerto Montt and runs 1240 km down to Villa O’Higgins, south of Patagonia. One of the roughest routes for bicyclists, but of course later down in south of Patagonia I ended up finding  another route Ruta-265 which was the roughest and hardest route I’ve ever ridden with a bicycle. Ruta-265 is bicyclists’ nightmare! It’s scary and it’s one of a kind! I bled all over my body with the scrapes from the falls I took on this horrible route with excessive gravel stones, rocks and sand covering it. However, this route -265 also the best routes with its amazing breath taking views. If you are in Patagonia, and if you miss this route, then you missed everything about the Patagonia. I couldn’t put my camera and film camera away. It is one of the best adventurous route for bicyclists. I thought I was in a different planet. I will have a blog about Ruta-265 next week most likely. But of course Carretera Austral-7 route is very hard to cycle as well. It will be on my next blog. Patagonia area may take up to 3 different blog. It’s a huge area, but still, it’s one of my favorite and I will always go back.