Wednesday, March 4, 2015

TACNA AND ARICA: PERU’S AND CHILE’S CUTE BORDER CITIES.

I had ridden and cycling more than 1300 kilometers and finally arriving to the last Peruvian city in the south before entering into the country of Chile. Since I left Lima, Peru, cycling all the way down here to Tacna city was a fantastic trip. I’ve gone through many Peruvian towns, cities, villages, Pacific Ocean and crossing Sechura Desert. And I was ready to enter into an intense Atacama Desert in Chile. I was very excited to discover about these two border cities Tacna and Arica. Here are two small size cities one is Peru’s most southern city and the other is Chile’s most northern city. They’re about 56 km away from each other. At least that is what my bicycle odometer read when I crossed the border in to Chile (37 km) and into Arica (58 km). It’s a great ride through the desert into Chile. 

           Passport control at the Peruvian side as you exit towards the Chilean Customs and Immigration was very fast and took only 10 minutes. However, as I came to the Chilean side, I didn't realize how this Passport control and Chilean Customs were going to be extremely slow. But after exiting from Peruvian customs and Passport control main problem was waiting for everyone who was crossing into Chile. I found Chilean Customs, Immigration officers and police very unorganized, slow, lazy and very bureaucratic compare the fast pace Peruvian service. Actually it was really disgusting and annoying to wait for 5 hours at the Chilean side just to go through a Passport and customs control. After staring at this lines for long time, I analysed and I looked at this disorganized and poorly managed border post and found where Chileans were making their mistakes, found why it was taking longer and found where the problem was. I called a policeman near me and explained nicely and showed him the difference, but he just ignored my suggestions and smiled at my face. Anyways, I hope in the future, Chileans can come up with better ways to move the crowd faster. Good Luck to them! 

          Both of these cities have an unforgettable history which Peru still feels bitter and upset in regards to losing the cities of Arica and Iquique to Chile which I will talk about Iquique later in a different blog, but first Tacna and Arica.  Before the War of Pacific (Guerra del Pacifico) 1879-1883 both cities Tacna and Arica belonged to Peru. And before the war, thousand of Italians who immigrated to Tacna, because of the great weather and various climates, they worked on successful production of wine and agriculture industry. Italians permanently stayed in Tacna and many of the Italian immigrants still kept their surnames up to this date.
Tacna city name originates from Quechua words “taka” which means “I hit this place” Quechua words came from Aymara people.  There are several evidences that suggests of an early culture which dates back more than 10,000 years. However, when we look at this area’s history we notice Spanish invaders arriving to this region in 1535. These invaders who belonged to Almagro expedition also organized to invade Chile. In 1500s Tacna was called Villa San Pedro de Tacna. Right around about in 1810, local patriots of Tacna city who were inspired by Argentineans’ declaration of independence from Spain, began to conspire. Francisco Antonia De Zela who started this movement against Spanish invaders became very successful. Once the Peruvian independence became real, patriotism and heroism of this city was recognized in May 26 1828. And Tacna was given the title of “Heroic City”


                                         Tacna Plaza de Armas , Southern, Peru   
                                               

                                      Tacna Cathedral, Peru.

But the problems of Tacna didn’t end there with independence. During the War of Pacific which was fought by Peru, Chile and Bolivia in 1880. After the Battle of Alto de la Alianza, Chilean military invaded Tacna, and remained there for 50 years. Despite the efforts and games from Chilean government to keep the city of Tacna, Peruvian Tacnecos kept their national pride and in 1929 after the agreements, Tacna was returned to Peru. Of course this Pacific War 1879-1883 cost Peru dearly which they lost the cities of Arica and Iquique to Chile. It is also worth to mention that Chile also invaded and took the city of Antofagasta from Bolivia. I’ve cycled all these Pacific cities which I will get into it on a later blog.
While I was in Tacna and in Arica, I talked to many local people at the cafes and the Pacific War of 1879 is a very sensitive subject for both nations, especially for Peruvians. I did my own research from both points of views not just one. It is really a touchy subject.



On the other hand, Arica is a port city also with an international airport, situated next to the Pacific Ocean and next to the Pan American Sur Highway which makes this city strategically very important trade city. When we look at its history, while Arica belonged to Peruvians, just like the city of Tacna, Arica was 

                       Peru- Chile Border from my headcam 

                    Arica, Chile from my headcam. City in the mornin g hours as I pedal my bicycle.

also conquered by Spaniards in 15th Century. Because of the importance of the Bolivian Silver and its location, coming from Potosi (world largest silver mine) mining area to Arica’s main port, this city played a major role as a leading port for trading. Of course as I mentioned above, during the Pacific War Chile invaded both Arica and Tacna. And in 1929 with the Tacna-Arica compromise, Chile added Arica in to their territory.

                                Arica, Chile. City Center Area.



       I have to admit that both border cities Tacna and Arica were small size (but not that small) cities which were unique and cute in their own way offered so much. People were very friendly, helpful and extremely nice to outsiders who were traveling their cities. Both cities are paradise for budget travelers as food and lodging both are very reasonable and low price. I’ve found both cities very laidback, relaxing and just about everything is in walking distance. Both cities are designed very well for pedestrians, long distance walkers and of course bicyclists. Despite the fact they didn’t have bicycle roads, still, it was very safe to ride your bicycle on every road or street. I was one of the cyclists who greatly enjoyed both of these cities. Did I mention about their bakeries? Oh my god, they have some of the best bakery goods in both cities that I couldn’t resist. And every day I was there, I visited bakeries twice a day enjoying mostly sweets. Of course in my later blogs, I will touch the cities of Iquique and Antofagasta which is in Chile and part of the Atacama Desert. I just knew there was a huge unknown adventure was waiting for me in Chile.

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